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THROUGH 



WATKINS GLEN 



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•^ fl THE OLD MILLff ffir 




DESCRIPTIVE AND ILLUSTRATED 

GUIDE BOOK 

OF THE FAMOUS 

WATKINS GLEN 

A NEW YORK STATE RESERVATION 

LOCATED AT WATKINS 
SCHUYLER CO., N. Y. 

(HEAD OF SENECA LAKE) 




FIRST EDITION, 1916 



PUBLISHED FOR THE 

HOPE SOUVENIR SHOP 



COMPILED BY J. D. HOPE, Agent 



COPYRIGHTED, 1916, 

BY J. D. HOPE, AGENT 

WATK1NS, N. Y 



M4V 27 1916 

'CI.A433215 




HE village of Watkins was named after its founder, Dr. Samuel 
Watkins, a native of England; and was included in the 
Watkins and Flint purchase. This tract of 350,000 acres 
was obtained from the State in 1794, by |ohn W. Watkins 
and Royal R. Flint, representing a syndicate of promi- 
nent men, and covered a large tract of country around 
the head of Seneca Lake. 

Dr. Watkins succeeded to the title of his elder brother's estate at his death, 
and became the owner of 25,000 acres of land. 

He came to this locality to reside in the year 1828, where he found only a small 
hamlet, of between two and three hundred inhabitants. The first settlement 
having been made in 1788, nine years after the Sullivan expedition, he named it 
Salubria, a most appropriate name in view of the climatic conditions. He built 
the Jefferson House, Glen National Bank building, together with several resi- 
dences; mapped and laid out the village, presented it with a public park, and 
had it incorporated April 11, 1842, under the name of Jefferson. 

He married Miss Cynthia A. Cass, an intelligent and well-educated lady of 
this village, and died in 1851, aged 80 years, leaving to his widow under his will 
nearly all of his estate. She subsequently married the late Judge George G. 
Freer, who came to Jefferson from Ithaca in 1851, and at her death made him 
her principal legatee. Through his influence the name of the village was changed, 
in 1852, from Jefferson to Watkins, as a fitting tribute to the memory of its 
founder. He did much for the progress and prosperity of the village : obtaining 
a new charter in 1861, organized the first bank, and was the leading spirit in 
establishing the county seat permanently at Watkins in 1868; also, mainly 
instrumental in the erection of the main building now occupied by the "Glen 
Springs, " and, in connection with the Hon. John Magee, presented Glenwood 
Cemetery (over 22 acres) to the village; he also donated the site for the school 
house, together with the land whereon the Schuyler County buildings are located. 
He died in 1878, aged 69 years, having ever been a munificent friend and patron 
of his adopted home. 

Within the limits of Dr. Watkins' domain reposed for many years, in silence 
and solitude, the now famous Watkins Glen. The stream that formed it was 
originally rated as a mill site, and from the number located thereon, in early 
times, was known for many years as Mill Creek, but with the passing of the 
industries connected therewith, and its opening as a summer resort, the name 
it now bears ("Glen Creek") was bestowed upon it. 

The location of the village is partly on a rocky hill sparsely covered with soil, 
and a flat, composed of sand and gravel, that has been washed down from the 
surrounding hills, filling up the deep gorge, a mile wide and three miles long, 
that was once the continuance of Seneca Lake, and in the center of which a 
depth of 1,200 feet has failed to find the rock. The stream issuing from the rocky 

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portals of the Glen has had its share in bringing down the material that has 
filled up this immense cavity, and geologists have estimated that more than 
30,000 years have been required in its formation. Through many years the deposits 
in the valley caused the stream to shift from time to time, north, south or east, 
wherever the land was lowest, and when Dr. Watkins erected saw and flouring 
mills within the rocky walls of the amphitheater, he opened for it a new channel 
half a mile long, due east from the mouth of the gorge, for the more direct flow 
of its waters. This is its present course, but even now, with the limited amount of 
silt brought down in times of freshets, dredging has to be resorted to every few 
years to keep it within bounds. 

There is no doubt but that in ancient times it must have had a large popula- 
tion of aborigines, as many relics, exhumed in making excavations for cellars, 
sewers, etc., go to prove; but nothing in the form of a name seems to have sur- 
vived. 

Montour Falls, three miles south, is the site of "Catherinestown," the only 
Indian village mentioned in the annals of Sullivan's expedition as being at the 
head of the Lake, which they passed on the highlands east of the valley. Catherine 
Montour was Queen of the Senecas, whose power was destroyed by this 
expedition. 

In 1863, the idea of unsealing this mysterious "book of nature," and opening 
its successive pages to the eyes of the "outer world," was conceived by M. Ells, 
a resident of Watkins, who deserves great credit for the measures he took to 
carry out his plan — by the construction of staircases, pathways, railings, bridges, 
and a miniature chalet, called the "Evergreen," perched on a shelf of rock near 
the north end of the present suspension bridge (which connects the banks of the 
gorge at the site of the old Glen Mountain House), and by announcing, through 
the press of the surrounding country, that on and after the 4th of July, 1863, 
Watkins Glen would be open as a summer resort for visitors, and a claimant 
for a share of the favors annually bestowed upon Niagara Falls, Saratoga Springs, 
White Mountains, Thousand Islands, Mammoth Cave, etc. 

The popular response far exceeded the most sanguine expectations. From 
8,000 to 10,000 visited the Glen during the balance of the season, and their num- 
ber has continued to increase annually. 

From the time of its opening until acquired by the State of New York many 
years of successful management, by different proprietors, gave it a world-wide 
reputation, and the dream of the Pioneer, who sleeps in beautiful Glenwood 
cemetery, came true at last. The names of John }. Lytle, Amos }. Michiner, 
and Capt. James Hope will ever be associated with the successful management 
and scenic beauties of Watkins Glen; the two former as proprietors and mana- 
gers, who built the noted "Glen Mountain House." The latter, a celebrated New 
York artist, whose reputation as a painter of glen scenery and war pictures had 
become world-wide, was attracted by glowing newspaper articles and came to 

[ "4 1 



the glen in 1872, where he erected a small cottage and art gallery, which was 
conducted in unison with the glen management, and during the remaining 
twenty years of his life transferred to canvas many scenes of this beautiful place, 
the most widely known being his celebrated "Rainbow Falls," 6x8 feet in 
size, which has been exhibited in different parts of the country, and with eighty 
others from his gallery was shown in the New York State building during the 
"Pan-American Exposition" at Buffalo in 1901. 

In 1906, "The Watkins Glen Reservation," containing about 105 acres, was 
acquired from the Andrew H. Green estate of New York City for the sum of 
$46,512.50, and forever reserved as a State Park for the purpose of preserving it 
in its natural condition; to be kept open and free of access to all mankind, with- 
out fee, charge, or expense to any person, for entering upon or passing to or 
from any part thereof. 

It was placed under the jurisdiction of the American Scenic and Historic 
Preservation Society, and its management was placed in the hands of a commis- 
sion, several of whom were local residents. Most of the permanent work as it 
now appears was completed during the four or five years it remained under 
this society. 

In 191 1, the jurisdiction and control, by an act of legislature, passed from the 
Scenic Society and was vested in a local board of five commissioners, and in 
1915 the number was increased to seven. 

They are appointed by the governor, and the term of one expires each year. 
No salaries are attached to the office, but they have power to appoint and fix the 
compensation of a secretary, superintendent, caretaker, etc., also make rules 
and regulations for the successful management of the Reservation. Since it 
became State property many changes have taken place. All of the buildings origi- 
nally connected with the management have been removed : old wooden stair- 
cases, bridges and railings have been replaced with tunnels, iron and concrete 
construction, which makes for safety, greater durability, and facility of explo- 
ration. Effecting these various changes and improvements many times the original 
cost has been expended. 

The property has a frontage of several hundred feet. That on Franklin Street 
is marked by a massive stone wall, composed of granite boulders of a variety 
of colors and shapes, gathered from the vicinity within a radius of ten miles. 
It is pierced by a large arched gateway at the center for the accommodation of 
autos, teams, etc., and a smaller one at the north corner, for pedestrians. A rein- 
forced concrete bridge, built by the State, carries the brick-paved street over the 
stream, and a concrete retaining wall on the north side of the creek extends 
from the bridge nearly 1,000 feet to the entrance tunnel. 

Watkins contains a population of about 3,000, and is reached by the Lehigh 
Valley R. R. on the east hills (Station, Burdett), Pennsylvania R. R., Northern 
Central division in the valley, New York Central R. R. (Pennsylvania division), 

[ 5 : 



on west hill, station at railroad bridge crossing Glen. It is also connected 
with Elmira by trolley and boat service over Seneca Lake from Geneva in the 
summer, and is the center of macadam State roads from all directions. The two 
principal streets, Franklin and Fourth, each a mile or more in length, are brick 
and macadam paved. It owns its own system of water works, sewers, electric 
light plant, etc. Both natural and artificial gas are available. Two large salt blocks 
are located here, with a daily output of thousands of barrels. A fine large school 
building with an up-to-date curriculum and faculty. 

The prominent summer resort features other than the glen are the "Glen 
Springs Sanitarium" and Seneca Lake. The former, one of the most noted and 
up-to-date institutions on the American continent has catered to thousands from 
every clime and country, and the system of baths and treatments, coupled with 
its wonderful mineral springs, are pronounced equal to any on earth. It remains 
open all the year and caters to a coterie of summer visitors. 

Seneca Lake, thirty-six miles long and from one to five miles wide, is the 
largest and most remarkable of the finger lakes of Central New York. With an 
average depth of 600 feet it fills an immense gorge with sparkling cold water, 
and its clean rocky shores and gravelly beaches are rarely met with. From a 
depth of 200 feet to the bottom it maintains an average temperature of 7 degrees 
above the freezing point the year around; and within the memory of the white 
man it has never been completely frozen over, except four times — 1855, 1874, 
1885, 1912. The absence of large feeders prove it to be an immense spring; 
only two other lakes in the world possess similar characteristics. In summer 
many cottages and campers line its shores, and the finest trout and bass are taken 
from it in their season. It is connected with and used as a part of the barge 
canal system. A boat service of several months is maintained between Watkins 
and Geneva, situated at opposite ends of the lake. A topographic and theo- 
metric survey is appended. 



[ 6 ] 




atkins glen, worn through the 
Portage and Hamilton Groups, 
is a deep tortuous canyon, with 
cliffs from one to three hundred 
feet high, cut through the rocky 
strata of Glen Mountain, in an easterly and 
westerly direction, hy a stream of pure water, 
having its source in springs, scattered through 
the highlands, that rise a thousand feet above 
the level of Seneca Lake to the west ot the 
village, and terminating at Entrance Amphi- 
theatre ; it is broken in its descent from section 
to section into cascades and pools ot rare 
beauty. In making a tour of the glen from 
the village, we enter the grounds from Franklin 
Street, and find ourselves in a beautiful little 
park, laid out with flower beds, paths and 
fountains, also a building for the accommo- 
dation of visitors ; nearby, is a concrete band 
stand, from which the Indian trail leads up 
the wooded bank. A section is reserved for 
the parking of autos, thousands of which are 
accommodated every season. 



[ 7 ] 




Franklin Street 




' 



Main Gateway, Watkins Glen Reservation 

[ 8 3 




Entrance Grounds, Watkins Glen Reservation 




Fountain and Pavilion, Watkins Glen Reservation 

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Entrance Cascade 



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Entrance Tunnel 

Passing through the Amphitheatre we pause before the ponderous, awe-inspiring rocky 
portal, 150 feet high which bars further progress, except by a tunnel that lias been Masted 
through the solid rock, winding upward sixty feet or more and emerging at Sentry Bridge, 
a massive concrete structure spanning the gorge, which here is very narrow. 



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The Old Mill 

Pausing on the bridge for a view through the entrance we have just left we catch a glimpse 
of the smiling valley and green hills beyond, and marvel at the wonderful works of the 
great Creator. 



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Glen Alpha 



From here we view the Entrance Cascade as it leaps into the large pool below. In the 
wall of rock which bars our vision up stream may be seen a small tunnel. A dam once 
existed at the head of the cascade and caused the waters to detour and flow through this 
tunnel down to the mills. A pool was formed above that gave the name of Stillwater 
Gorge to that portion of the Glen. 



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Upper End of Tunnel and Sentry Bridge 

Gaining the rocky path above, we pause after reaching a point over the Entrance Cascade, 
and take in the upper end of Entrance Tunnel and Sentry Bridge, with the wild weird 
gorge below over which we have just passed. 



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Minnehaha Falls 

A few rods further in our journey, upon rounding a turn in the path, we arrive at Cavern 
Gorge. Facing us is the Minnehaha Falls, and in the distance we catch a glimpse of Cavern 
Cascade. Ascending the iron stairs, clinging closely to the rocks, we pause at the top for 
a back view. 



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Point Look-Off from Below 



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Frowning Cliff 

High above on our left rises "Point Look-Off," 140 feet above the stream, and the rough 
and rugged mass of rocks overhanging us is the Frowning Cliff. 



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Cavern Cascade 



The impression of Cavern Cascade is one that clings to the visitor, after many 
others have faded from memory, and the first thought as we view it is that we 
have reached the end of our journey. The shelving rock over which the stream 
leaps into the depths of the immense cauldron, carved out of the solid rock 
by countless ages of effort, is buttressed by ponderous walls, which preclude 
the idea of scaling. The pool at this place is one of the largest and deepest in the 
Glen, and before the debris from rock cutting at the tunnel and other points 
had been dumped into it had a depth of sixty feet or more. Formerly the "long 
stairs" of forty-three steps led up in front of the Cascade, and the upper end 
rested in the remains of an ancient pool, which is discernible to-day. As we 
pass into the cavern back of the falling water there opens before us a spiral 
tunnel in the north wall, and when the water is high the roar at this point is 
deafening. Hastening on we are soon at the view point above, gazing into whirl- 
wind gorge. From here a path leads out of the Glen, and we can visit Point 
Look-Off. The site ot the Old Glen Mountain House and Hope's Art Gallery, 
or Glenwood Cemetery, 
until acquired by the State, 
all had to climb up to the 
level of the Suspension 
Bridge in going through 
the gorge. The section 
over which we have passed 
is known as the lower 
glen. 




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Cavern Cascade 



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1 



Upper End of Vista 

Continuing on under the Suspension Bridge we are in the "Vista," near the upper end of 
which we discover a small tunnel on the right, giving access to a staircase leading to Forest 
Clift and Lovers' Lane. 



[ 20 ] 




Stairs at Lovers' Lane 

This section is traversed by two paths that unite at the- Cathedral, one near the water and 
an older one higher up. They are connected at Forest Cliff by concrete steps. Advancing 
on the lower one we pass Diamond Falls, Narrow Pass, and at the Sylvan Rapids get 
our first glimpse of the Cathedral. 



C 21 j 




The Cathedra] 

The Cathedral can only be viewed in its entirety from the south side of the stream. It is an 
immense oblong amphitheatre, nearly an eighth of a mile in length, with the Central 
Cascade at its upper end, rocky walls from ioo to 200 feet high, and a nearly level floor. 
It is the longest and largest scene in the glen. 



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Cathedral Reflection 

Is a view looking clown from the center and shows an ancient clump of trees nearly ioo 
feet high. The Baptismal Font is a beautiful pool near the upper end. 



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Central Cascade 

Sixty-five feet high, with a deep pool at its base, is the half-way mark between Franklin 
Street and the railroad bridge. Pulpit Rock, one of the highest in the glen, looms up 
on the south bank at this point. 



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Rocky Path 

From the Cathedral, a flight of stairs leads to Rocky Path, the upper end of which passes 
through the fourth tunnel at Folly Bridge. 



i 25 : 




Poets' Dream 

The view looking into the Cathedral from this point is called "Poets' Dream. 



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Glen of the Pools 

The next section, "Glen of the Pools," so named from the number ot rocky basins it 
contains, and from its upper end Rainbow Falls and Triple Cascade bursts upon our view. 



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Rainbow Falls and Triple Cascade 

Rainbow Falls is the most celebrated and longest remem- 
bered of all the varied and beautiful scenes of this wonderful 
place. The combination of the three cascades in the stream, 
coupled with the veil that trickles from the southern cliff, 
falling over the rocky path that leads behind the spray, 
probably has no duplicate in the world, and once seen it is 
indelibly impressed on the brain never to be effaced while 
reason sits enthroned. The brilliant rainbows seen from 
various points, as it is illuminated by the sunlight stream- 
ing into the gorge, are responsible for its name, and in 
passing the spray several are disclosed by looking through 
it, and from the bridge above a look back will frequently 
discover one. In winter, ice formations at this point block 
all attempts at travel. 



[ 28 2 




Rainbow Falls and Triple Cascade 



[ 29 ] 




Pillar of Beauty 

Glen Arcadia next claims our attention. On the left the "Pillar of Beauty," hoary with 
age, and covered with moss, lichen and ferns, springs upward from a beautiful pool that 
laves its base, and as we pass into the narrow passage beyond the Artists' Dream untolds 
before us. 



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Artists' Dream 

I his view is considered by many to be the finest in the (Hen. 



e 3i : 




Pluto Falls 

As we come to Pluto Falls, on which the sun never shines, the air gets damp and cold and 
the whole general impression suggests Dante's Inferno. 



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Spiral Gorge 

Spiral Gorge shows the wild region just passed through. 



C 33 ] 




Elfin Gorge 



And after viewing Elfin Gorge and 



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Fairy Pool 

Fairy Pool, we emerge from the high rocks into the Lovers' Ramble, that extends to 
the railroad bridge, one mile and a half from Franklin Street. 



C 35 ] 











Jacob's Ladder 

Contains 134 steps and leads to the elevation above, which is nearly 800 feet higher than 
Seneca Lake. A path leading back over the hill can be taken from this point, which ends 
at the lookout in Glenwood Cemetery, where a fine view of the village, lake and valley 
is obtained. 



[ 36 j 




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[ 39 ] 



SENECA LAKE 



15 oo above. Topographic Survey by N FW YORK Ttaeonietric Survey by 

Prof. E. A.Fuertes, 1,u " ' v N ' Dwight w. Smith, 

J 880. 



Wathint Glen "I 




18 FEET DEPTH. GREATEST DEPTH OF LAKE 



Depth in feet at whicjb Theometric 
Survey was made at dates iudicated on s. &0- 
the opposite side of the scale. 



Laoo 

Change of only oue degree Fahi 
in 150 feet of depth. and below this /280- 
300 ft.from surface of Lake change 
only slight and not veriued. I -Wo 



Vahr. at surface Aug. 1st to Sept. 1.1891. 
Well-water at 47 feet being 51° 



Average temperature for dates given. 



Seven degrees above freezing, 
change not perceptible during the 
Summer of 1891. 



Diagram of Seneca Lake 



THE MATTHEWS-NOR 



VORkS, BUFFALO, CLEV 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 







